Wheels: ADV5.1
Finish: Matte black with gloss black windows and red pin stripe.
Size: 20"
Taken this afternoon...Full shoot on its way
Wheels: ADV5.1
Finish: Matte black with gloss black windows and red pin stripe.
Size: 20"
Taken this afternoon...Full shoot on its way
Great shots, I'm a big fan of the pin stripe on the wheels, looks awesome!
I could do w/o the stripes but this owner loves pin stripes.
question for you...
is it ok/safe/legal to move the offset of a 3 piece wheel by using a spacer between the rim sections and the hub section... ie a large ring with all the holes drilled to have longer rim joining bolts used....?
I have a customer that needs to move his wheels in a bit as they stick outside the body, but has no brake caliper clearance....
We need about 15-20 mm.
As long as it is a hub centric spacer with extended bolts it isnt too bad. Make sure to clean the surfaces on the rotor and wheel very well to make sure the spacer is perfectly flat to avoid vibrating.
I just re-read your question...the spacers will push the wheels out if he needs to bring the wheel in and has no brake clearance there isnt much you can do other than changing the wheels.
We just finished building a set for an AE members F355 (with bigger brakes) and we ran into this problem.
You still read it wrong...
The wheel sticks out too far already... I want to know if it's ok to put a spacer in the wheel where it meets the spokes section.... to move the tyre contact point inwards without affecting the spokes position.
yeah i am confused...do you mean a spacer on the hub? this would push the wheel further out...
thats the only place i have ever see a spacer...
do you have a picture of the problem?
I guess you've answered the question, without understanding it.
But ok, I'll spell it out... (I thought a wheel guy would get this easy)
You have 3 pieces to the wheel... inner rim, outer rim, and centre/spoked section....
I have a wheel that sticks out too far already so a traditional WHEEL spacer would make it worse...
and I can't machine the mount surface / back of the spoked section down because the spokes already barely clear the brakes...
So, I was wondering if you can use a large diameter ring type spacer in the bit where the 3 pieces meet.... in order to space INWARDS the rim sections, leaving the spoked bit where it is.
I'd just need a spacer ring made up and all the rim joining ring bolts would need to be longer.
I told the guy already it'd be easier to get wheels that fit, but he already paid lots for these from some shark and I was trying to salvage the situation.
They're not on a 246 Dino by any chance?
Phill can't you take it to one of those guys that re tesions the spokes and get them to tension the spokes such that the outer rim is dragged inwards toward the brake disc?
I have a classic with wire wheels and that would seem obvious to me...But then again i could be completely wrong and off the ball. :doh:
I get you now...It's not a classic wire wheel is it?
You need a spacer on the outer diameter of the rim right?
I have seen stainless steel ones adverstised on EBAY USA which may suit.
No.
No.
Yup :tilt:
Good. Glad someone does.
Yup.
Yikes, stainless... that'd be hard to do and very expensive. i don't see why aluminium wouldn't work... but thanks
ahhh.... ebay.... I HATE ebay...
well, changing the offset, yes.
Whether I'm increasing or decreasing depends on your point of view... :tilt:
Decreasing the offset and reducing the exterior dish. Moving the spokes out towards the edge, then running spacers on the hub to move the wheels further out. Creating more room for brakes.... Yeah?
you're on the right track, but have your terminology a bit off...
the industry measures offset in the reverse as you think (which is the same as me BTW)... reducing the seen offset once fitted, is actually INCREASING the designated offset value.
I'm happy with the spokes to brakes clearance.. but the tyres stick outside.. I JUST want to move the tyre contact patch inwards.
I ONLY need I guess you'd call them "rim spacers". Not hub or wheel spacers.
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